up early

So, I have not gotten cell phone service here yet, nor have I an alarm clock. When I woke this morning, there was just the slightest hint of light in the sky. I figured it was 7:30, maybe. So I took my time getting dressed and closing up the pull-out couch as quietly as possible, and turned on my computer to do a quick email check if the internet signal was strong enough. Voila, it is 6:35. Eeek. As the Louvre, my destination for today, does not open until 8:30, I am taking this very early moment to write about last night.
My host, Laurent works for a local TV station whose sole purpose is to cover the artistic/cultural happenings of a neighborhood nearby that is populated mostly with African immigrants. I was invited to see a performance at a club in said neighborhood with no knowledge of who or what I was to see, or even the nature of the place I was going. The place itself reminded me of west Oakland, in the way people were hanging out on the street at 9pm as the sun went down, but without the same tension. Laurent later told me that it is a neighborhhod known for periodical violence, but I did not sense it in the air as I did every day I lived in Oakland. Everywhere in Paris there is a great diversity of race, and while I have seen some of the protests on TV demonstrating the racial tension, I do not feel it in the way I feel it back in the States. I will be curious to know more about the difference in slavery practices in France historically. I imagine it accounts for some of the difference.
Back to my evening...
Turns out a local school of the arts had a showcase of their students, ranging from some incredible hip-hop dancing to a couple of very modern dance-inspired pieces to live music. It was in a small, old space with stone walls, wooden beams and what felt like a great deal of history. The local 12-15 year-olds were packed into the room in what seemed like great anticipation of the show. So much suppressed hormonal energy.
Well, it turns out that the kids were there because the show was local and gratuit (free). While it was clear that they loved the hip-hop, the more arty pieces were a stretch for their artistic palates. Strangely, though they talked at various volumes during many of the pieces, as soon as the lights went down, signaling the end of a performance, they burst into thunderous cheers, regardless of how little attention was paid the performance itself. I wondered if it was just a release of energy. The performers seemed to have anticipated the crowd and were unfazed by the noise. I like the show very much. Even the modern dance was skillful and not too esoteric, which is what normally turns me off about it.
Afterwards, we went to a nearby Senegalese restaurant for spiced fish and rice and some amazingly delicious hibiscus juice, or was it tea? Hard to say, but it is far better than anything like it I've had before. The food was a new experience as well. Like the Ethiopian food I've had, there were stewed carrots and root vegetables with the dish, but the spices were quite unique. And the rice was spiced as well, I think it was a type of paprika. So good. The only thing that really bugs me about France is the expectation that one will eat everything on one's pate in one sitting. No one takes home leftovers here. So there was a little that went to waste. Most of you reading know how that irks me. I'm debating undergoing the derisive laughter and bringing tupperware to dinner. I suppose I'll just go to tapas restaurants more often.
All in all it was the type of experience I live for, and I am so grateful to have a local connection. Tonight, aprés le Louvre et diner, I plan to catch some local swing dancing, though it is close to impossible to know if anyone will even be there. Laurent refuses to go out dancing, so I will be on my own.